Thursday, May 15, 2014

Aviv Poland Journey: Day 4 (Tereisinstadt)

It is only when one lays eyes upon a place where the Nazis engaged in the extermination of Jews can they truly comprehend the realness of the events that took place in Europe between 1939 and 1945. As we arrived at Tereisinstadt, a former ghetto/camp located in the north of the Czech Republic, we were greeted by an enormous cemetery overlooked by a huge magen david, forcing an immediate recognition of the atrocities committed to our people on the very ground on which we stood. A number of the graves were not even marked with names. We entered the ‘small fortress,’ a former Nazi control centre of the area where we watched a short propaganda film detailing life in the Tereisin ghetto as the Nazis wanted outsiders to view it. We explored further and were shown to barracks where prisoners of the Gestapo were held, not exclusively Jews, we entered rooms smaller than some of our individual bedrooms and were informed that these barracks were known to have held roughly 100 prisoners at any one time.

We made our way around the former ghetto, in which life bafflingly continues to go on as though nothing happened, stopping at various sites and museums with significance to the Jewish narrative of Tereisin which were scattered all through the current town. I simply could not comprehend how one can live on land knowing that such disgusting acts of inhumane indecency had taken place there. Visiting museums around Tereisin we gradually filled in knowledge about the history and fate of the Jews who had lived in this area, as well as their activities and lifestyle during the war years. It was very refreshing to see an emphasis placed on LIFE within the ghetto notably as cultural undertakings such as art, theatre, literature and music to name a few, rather than just a depressing focus upon the grim fate which most eventually received.

The living space of Jews during this time was simply deplorable, visiting a recreation of their conditions reinforced the harsh reality that Jews at this time were simply viewed as ‘untermenschen,’ to use the German, or ‘subhuman.’ Hundreds were packed into tiny rooms, you were lucky to have a bed as many resided on wooden floors in an area in which temperatures could be known to pass freezing; if someone died then it was your lucky day as you were in with a shot of securing a bed, this was the harsh reality. We continued touring around on foot until we reached the most harrowing site of all in the entire Tereisin area, the crematorium. Used by the Nazis to dispose of Jews who had perished in the ghetto, it was simply appalling to think that we were standing in a place where Nazis would inspect and cremate Jewish corpses and then shove them into small wooden boxes.

Outside the crematorium we conducted a ceremony of our own to honour the memory of those Jews who had spent time in Tereisinstadt. It features testimonies, poems, candle lighting as well as the recitation of the ode usually preserved for ANZAC Day. This inclusion ensured the consideration of nationality as well as religion when thinking of these historical events; as well as this, it got me thinking of the confusion that would have been caused for the assimilated Jews of the time some of whom who would perhaps have considered themselves primarily German or Polish or Czech or any other nationality rather than Jewish, as to why they were to be singled out for prosecution rather than any other citizen.

Following the ceremony we ate a packed kosher lunch and headed off to Krakow where we were to spend the night.

Something else really caught my attention today; throughout the day we passed various groups of other religions and nationalities, many of whom it seemed simply did not understand the gravity of where they were. Many walked past us, a group where many of the boys were wearing kippot, and continued as if nothing was different, chuckling and laughing to their friends. This peaked my interest, is this disconnection from the reality of the atrocities committed on the ground on which we stood due to a difference in culture? A lack of education? An immaturity? Or is it simply that we are sensitive to and connect largely to the events of the holocaust due to the fact that it directly effects our family heritage and lineage? This is a question which I could not answer, however I do depart with this final thought: in my opinion, there is no individual nor group in any society that cannot benefit from the lessons of the holocaust, it is only from seeing humans at their lowest point can one truly be thankful for the world in which we live today and not squander the freedoms which we possess.


Jake

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