Showing posts with label czech republic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label czech republic. Show all posts

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Aviv Poland Journey: Day 4 (Tereisinstadt)

It is only when one lays eyes upon a place where the Nazis engaged in the extermination of Jews can they truly comprehend the realness of the events that took place in Europe between 1939 and 1945. As we arrived at Tereisinstadt, a former ghetto/camp located in the north of the Czech Republic, we were greeted by an enormous cemetery overlooked by a huge magen david, forcing an immediate recognition of the atrocities committed to our people on the very ground on which we stood. A number of the graves were not even marked with names. We entered the ‘small fortress,’ a former Nazi control centre of the area where we watched a short propaganda film detailing life in the Tereisin ghetto as the Nazis wanted outsiders to view it. We explored further and were shown to barracks where prisoners of the Gestapo were held, not exclusively Jews, we entered rooms smaller than some of our individual bedrooms and were informed that these barracks were known to have held roughly 100 prisoners at any one time.

We made our way around the former ghetto, in which life bafflingly continues to go on as though nothing happened, stopping at various sites and museums with significance to the Jewish narrative of Tereisin which were scattered all through the current town. I simply could not comprehend how one can live on land knowing that such disgusting acts of inhumane indecency had taken place there. Visiting museums around Tereisin we gradually filled in knowledge about the history and fate of the Jews who had lived in this area, as well as their activities and lifestyle during the war years. It was very refreshing to see an emphasis placed on LIFE within the ghetto notably as cultural undertakings such as art, theatre, literature and music to name a few, rather than just a depressing focus upon the grim fate which most eventually received.

The living space of Jews during this time was simply deplorable, visiting a recreation of their conditions reinforced the harsh reality that Jews at this time were simply viewed as ‘untermenschen,’ to use the German, or ‘subhuman.’ Hundreds were packed into tiny rooms, you were lucky to have a bed as many resided on wooden floors in an area in which temperatures could be known to pass freezing; if someone died then it was your lucky day as you were in with a shot of securing a bed, this was the harsh reality. We continued touring around on foot until we reached the most harrowing site of all in the entire Tereisin area, the crematorium. Used by the Nazis to dispose of Jews who had perished in the ghetto, it was simply appalling to think that we were standing in a place where Nazis would inspect and cremate Jewish corpses and then shove them into small wooden boxes.

Outside the crematorium we conducted a ceremony of our own to honour the memory of those Jews who had spent time in Tereisinstadt. It features testimonies, poems, candle lighting as well as the recitation of the ode usually preserved for ANZAC Day. This inclusion ensured the consideration of nationality as well as religion when thinking of these historical events; as well as this, it got me thinking of the confusion that would have been caused for the assimilated Jews of the time some of whom who would perhaps have considered themselves primarily German or Polish or Czech or any other nationality rather than Jewish, as to why they were to be singled out for prosecution rather than any other citizen.

Following the ceremony we ate a packed kosher lunch and headed off to Krakow where we were to spend the night.

Something else really caught my attention today; throughout the day we passed various groups of other religions and nationalities, many of whom it seemed simply did not understand the gravity of where they were. Many walked past us, a group where many of the boys were wearing kippot, and continued as if nothing was different, chuckling and laughing to their friends. This peaked my interest, is this disconnection from the reality of the atrocities committed on the ground on which we stood due to a difference in culture? A lack of education? An immaturity? Or is it simply that we are sensitive to and connect largely to the events of the holocaust due to the fact that it directly effects our family heritage and lineage? This is a question which I could not answer, however I do depart with this final thought: in my opinion, there is no individual nor group in any society that cannot benefit from the lessons of the holocaust, it is only from seeing humans at their lowest point can one truly be thankful for the world in which we live today and not squander the freedoms which we possess.


Jake

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Aviv Poland Journey: Days 3 + 4 (Flight + Prague)

Leaving Israel, a country that represents hope and freedom for Jews everywhere, for Prague and Poland, a region of the world which has seen numerous atrocities committed upon the Jews, was somewhat of a bittersweet feeling. We arrived in the Czech Republic’s capital quite late, consumed some rather sub-par kosher dinner and headed off to our accommodation, the 4 star Duo Hotel; most were lucky to record 6 hours sleep for the night. All awoke bright and early the following morn, ready to take in the famous landmarks which Prague had to offer. Our first stop of the day was the Prague’s Jewish Quarter, which used to be the home of tens of thousands of Jews prior to the holocaust but today houses a community of just 1200. We visited the old-new synagogue of Prague which is famous for being the supposed birthplace and home of the mythical Golem, a legend which Jared and Toby informed us of at the site. Next up was the adjacent cemetery which was eerily reminiscent of graveyards featured in cinema thanks to the close proximity of it gravestones. We were reliably informed by our permanent guide Mark and Czech specialist guide Tom that the cemetery actually features as many as 12 layers of graves in some places… only adding to the uncomfortable occult vibe being felt by much of the group. It was an amazing site, certainly something you don’t see just anywhere in the world and for me a symbol of the deep roots of Jewish culture in Europe which go back thousands of years.

We were just getting started, we next headed to a synagogue which had been converted into a museum showcasing Jewish ritual and culture in a simplistic fashion; this was planned by Hitler and the Nazis to be a museum of the extinct race, showing how the Jews lived once they were wiped out. Whilst being a chilling reminder of Hitler’s plans to eliminate our entire race, it was somewhat of an odd museum for most, considering it featured items which we would just find in our own homes and which represent the majority of our Jewish identity. Following this we visited a synagogue which had been turned into a memorial featuring 80,000 names of those who perished in the holocaust. This place shook me more than any other we saw on this day; the names just didn’t stop, they filled every wall of the entire synagogue. And what’s more, as I examined the surnames on the wall I found one which stood out to me particularly, my own. This shook me greatly, I stared at the ‘Rosengarten’ for a number of minutes and the gravity of where I was and the journey I was undertaking began to set in. There were just too many names on these walls, however each was an individual, with a story, something which can too easily be overlooked when statistics inform memory.

The Spanish synagogue, built to house Prague’s growing reform community in the 19th century, was our next stop, and it’s exquisite architecture and artefacts suitably impressed all. It featured a museum about the history of the Jews of the Czech Republic, detailing their grapples with anti-Semitism, experiences during the holocaust, as well as their struggles with assimilation. The history of this place grabbed me, whilst I believed I already had a fairly ample knowledge of both Jewish and holocaust history, it showed me that there is always another perspective, always more to know. We did not stay for long as our busy schedule dictated we keep on the move in order to see the entirety of the cultural and historical riches offered by the amazing city of Prague.

This was the extent of our Jewish landmarks for the day, next we headed up to the castle compound which featured a residence of the Czech president as well as the most unbelievably aesthetically pleasing church I have ever laid eyes on. St Vitus Cathedral was simply jaw dropping, the beautiful stain glassed windows coupled with the hand sculpted gargoyles and ridiculously high ceilings made the photographers of the group thank their lucky stars… of course this was the day I forgot my camera at the hotel. Our next stop was Prague’s love lock bridge, a symbol of love throughout Europe, and just up the road from it we visited the John Lennon Wall where people graffiti various messages of freedom. We also engaged in a song or two with a man who busks there almost every day of the year, it was a beautiful sight to watch the entirety of Aviv croon along to Wonderwall with the busker.  We soon crossed the famous St Charles Bridge, where we witnessed Klezmer music, various street vendors as well as amazing monuments dedicated to Jesus and other religious symbols. Quickly arriving at the town centre in which we were afforded an hour’s free time to do what we wished.

Following this hour we reconvened and headed to the Jewish Community Centre at which we engaged in a delicious kosher meal before retiring back to our hotel for the night. Tomorrow sees the really emotional and difficult sights begin to appear on our itinerary, we visit Terezin, a holocaust ghetto and camp, as well as making our way to Krakow where we will spend the next few nights. Only time will tell how we all respond to such heavy topics.


Jake